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First, let\u2019s set a baseline: what do we even mean by \u201cnoise level\u201d? In the elevator industry, noise is measured in decibels (dB), and for car elevators, we\u2019re focused on two key categories: airborne noise (sound you hear through the air, like a rattle or hum) and structure-borne noise (sound that travels through the building\u2019s concrete or metal, like a low rumble you feel more than hear). The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) sets guidelines for building noise, and for spaces adjacent to parking garages or residential units, that\u2019s a maximum of 50 dB during the day and 35 dB at night. Most well-built car elevators fall right in that range\u2014between 40 and 55 dB when operating, depending on the model and installation. Wait, you might be thinking, that\u2019s quieter than a normal conversation (which is about 60 dB) or a refrigerator hum (around 40 dB). So why do some car elevators sound loud? Let\u2019s get into the factors that shift that number.<\/p>\n
The biggest culprit for car elevator noise is the drive system, and this is where car elevators differ sharply from standard passenger elevators. Passenger elevators are designed for speed and light loads (most carry 1,000 pounds or less), but car elevators have to handle 4,000 to 10,000 pounds\u2014sometimes more for heavy-duty commercial models. That extra weight means the drive system has to work harder, and if it\u2019s not engineered for that load, the noise spikes. For example, tractions systems (the most common type for residential car elevators) use steel cables wrapped around a sheave to move the car. If the sheave is improperly aligned, the cables will vibrate as they move, creating a high-pitched whine that can hit 60 dB\u2014louder than a vacuum cleaner. That\u2019s exactly what happened to that residential developer I mentioned earlier: they used a passenger elevator traction system rated for 2,000 pounds under a 6,000-pound car elevator, so the cables were jumping and rattling every time the elevator moved.<\/p>\n
Then there\u2019s the machinery room, or lack thereof. Many modern car elevators are \u201cmachine-room-less\u201d (MRL), which saves space in tight parking garages or small residential buildings. But MRL systems place the drive motor, controller, and sheaves right above the elevator shaft, often directly adjacent to parking spaces or even living units. In traditional elevators, the machinery room is separate, with acoustic insulation between it and the rest of the building. In MRL models, that insulation has to be built into the shaft walls\u2014and cheap or incorrect insulation is another common cause of high noise. I once worked on a commercial parking garage in downtown Chicago where the installer used standard fiberglass insulation instead of mass-loaded vinyl (MLV), which is designed to block low-frequency rumble. The result was a 58 dB noise level that permeated the top-floor office space, even though the elevator itself was only 10 feet away. After we re-insulated the shaft walls with MLV, the noise dropped to 47 dB\u2014well within ASHRAE guidelines.<\/p>\n
Another factor is the elevator\u2019s speed. Residential car elevators usually move at 25 to 50 feet per minute (FPM), while commercial heavy-duty models can go up to 100 FPM. Faster elevators create more wind noise in the shaft, plus more friction between the cables, guides, and car frame. We once tested a 100 FPM commercial car elevator at our testing facility, and without modifications, it hit 56 dB during operation. We adjusted the guide rails to reduce friction and added a flexible noise-dampening strip between the car frame and the elevator cabin, bringing it down to 49 dB. For residential projects, sticking to the lower end of the speed range (25 to 35 FPM) is a simple way to keep noise levels low, especially if the elevator is near a bedroom or a quiet parking area.<\/p>\n
You might be wondering: what about noise during start-up and stop? That\u2019s another critical point of measurement. When an elevator accelerates or decelerates, the torque on the drive system can create a sudden \u201cjolt\u201d that translates into noise. Modern car elevators use variable voltage variable frequency (VVVF) drives, which adjust the motor speed smoothly to eliminate that jolt. Older or cheaper models use simpler drives that jerk the car into motion, creating a thud that can reach 65 dB when starting or stopping. For a client who installs car elevators in luxury high-rises in Miami, this was a non-negotiable. They told us residents would call complaining about being woken up by a loud \u201cbang\u201d at 2 a.m. when a car was being moved. By switching to our VVVF drive system, the start\/stop noise dropped to under 40 dB, and they haven\u2019t had a noise complaint in three years.<\/p>\n
Now, let\u2019s get specific: what do real-world car elevators sound like, by type? We test every single one of our car elevators at our 50,000-square-foot testing facility in Ohio, where we measure noise at three points: inside the car, outside the car (in the parking space adjacent to the shaft), and in the room above the shaft. For our residential hydraulic car elevators (hydraulic systems are common for low-rise residential garages), the noise levels are: 42 dB inside the car, 45 dB in the adjacent parking space, and 48 dB in the machinery room. Hydraulic systems tend to be quieter than traction systems because the lift uses a fluid to move the car, which reduces vibration and cable noise. Our commercial traction car elevators, designed for 6,000-pound loads, test at 40 dB inside the car, 47 dB in the parking area, and 51 dB in the machinery room. The only time we see noise go above 55 dB is if there\u2019s an installation error\u2014misaligned guides, insufficient insulation, or a drive system that\u2019s underrated for the load.<\/p>\n
I want to be clear: there\u2019s no such thing as a \u201ccompletely silent\u201d car elevator. Even the quietest systems make a low hum when operating, and that\u2019s not a flaw\u2014it\u2019s a normal part of mechanical movement. The key is that that hum shouldn\u2019t be noticeable when you\u2019re parked next to the elevator, or when you\u2019re in a residential unit above the shaft. We had a client in Los Angeles who told us their neighbor thought their car elevator was a new air conditioning unit for the first six months after installation. That\u2019s the level of noise we aim for\u2014subtle, not intrusive.<\/p>\n
So why does all this matter, beyond just avoiding complaints? For one, car elevator noise can impact property value. A study by the National Association of Home Builders found that homes with on-garage car elevators that have excessive noise (over 55 dB) sell for 7 to 10% less than comparable homes with quiet elevators. For commercial parking garages, high noise levels can drive away tenants\u2014retailers in garages with noisy elevators report 12% less foot traffic on upper levels, because customers don\u2019t want to deal with the loud rumble. For our team, that means our job isn\u2019t just to install an elevator that moves cars\u2014it\u2019s to install one that blends into the building\u2019s environment, so it doesn\u2019t become a distraction.<\/p>\n
Now, if you\u2019re looking to install a car elevator, what can you do to keep noise levels low? First, work with a supplier who specializes in car elevators, not passenger elevators. As I mentioned earlier, the load requirements are drastically different, and a supplier who doesn\u2019t know car elevator systems won\u2019t account for the extra weight and vibration. Second, ask for noise specifications upfront. Any reputable car elevator supplier will have third-party test data for their systems, including airborne and structure-borne noise levels at different points. Third, pay attention to installation details\u2014insulation in the shaft, alignment of guide rails, and drive system type are all make-or-break. Fourth, consider the location: if the elevator is adjacent to a bedroom, office, or retail space, opt for a hydraulic system or a low-speed traction system with extra insulation.<\/p>\n
At our company, we\u2019ve installed over 2,000 car elevators across North America, and our average noise level across all models is 46 dB\u2014right in line with ASHRAE\u2019s guidelines. We recently did a project for a residential developer in Austin, Texas, where they needed 12 car elevators for a new luxury townhome complex. The developer\u2019s original plan was to use a standard passenger elevator, but when we ran the numbers, we showed them that the noise would hit 62 dB in the townhome garages. We recommended our residential hydraulic system, which came in at 44 dB, and the developer saved $15,000 in installation costs while avoiding potential complaints. They\u2019ve since referred us to three other projects in the area.<\/p>\n
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I know that when you\u2019re shopping for a car elevator, there are a lot of factors to consider: load capacity, speed, space requirements, price. Noise might feel like a minor detail, but from our experience, it\u2019s the one that causes the most headaches down the line. A car elevator that runs loud isn\u2019t just annoying\u2014it\u2019s a problem that can hurt your project\u2019s reputation, drive away tenants, and even reduce property values. That\u2019s why we spend so much time testing and calibrating our systems, and why we work closely with installers to make sure every unit is set up to meet noise standards.<\/p>\n
Passenger Elevator<\/a> If you\u2019re planning a project that involves a car elevator, whether it\u2019s a residential garage, a commercial parking structure, or a retail space, don\u2019t let noise be an afterthought. Our team can walk you through the different models, show you third-party noise test data, and work with your installer to make sure your elevator operates quietly and efficiently. We\u2019ve helped hundreds of clients avoid the common pitfalls of car elevator installation, and we\u2019re ready to help you too.<\/p>\n Fuji Express Elevator Co., Ltd.<\/a>References<\/h2>\n
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